Tuesday, May 22

Coorg 2: Dishes, Drives, Delectable and Delightful

My uncle George had discovered that alcohol was a food well in advance of modern medical thought.

....from The Delayed Exit of Claude and Eustace (1923)


This has been a hectic week (the one gone by) and after discovering the joys of Bangalore (rather early) night life (A "Hint" of "Maya" in the "Tavern") sauntered off into the west, the land of the Kodavas or Coorgis. The destination was Polycad Estate, Amathi, some 250 odd kms from Bangalore. Lovely place and the recommended route is Bangalore - Srirangapatana - Hunsur (Bypassing Mysore) - Piriyapatna - Siddapura - Amathi. The Piriyapatna - Siddapura stretch is a spectacular drive through some forests and the odd manicured plantation on the side.

Started a little late but after a food stop at Kamath's on the Blr-Mysore SH17, it was smooth sailing. The country roads are slightly narrow but on the whole motorable (except 4 or 5, hundred meter patches where widening work's going on) and the drive takes 5 hrs plus depending on the passengers / drivers.

After arriving, went off to iripu falls (didn't make it on time) and had a minor flutter when we nearly ran out of gas - the Petrol Pumps (or Petrol Bunks as they are known locally). So a fuel stop and drink stop later, were back at the estate. Evening drinks - most welcome after the 300 plus kms of driving - were accompanied by apricots marinated in home made brandy followed by a lavish spread. After some dessert and brandy for afters, all retired. The morning started late, 9ish, but we were on our way soon thereafter with Bylakuppe being the first (and as it turned out, only) port of call.

Things to do: Relax
Other things to do: Enjoy the clean air and the food that the Cariappas' provide. While the cost includes bed and breakfast, the dinner there is excellent.
Yet other things to do: Go to Iripu falls, close to Brahmagiri forest: this must be accomplished before 6 pm (the access gates shut and the area is taken over by wild tuskers - who are not particularly fond of garishly dressed tourists).
Adjoining areas: Nagarhole national park, Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary
En route Places:
Brindavan Gardens and attached Bird sanctuary; Bylakuppe Tibetean Settlement

Bylakuppe is a quite quaint place with not much to do. They make good momos, otherwise the place is a bit too touristy. The Golden Temple Complex is imposing but sadly over run by tourists who treat the place like a photo-op, killing the feel of the place. Bylakuppe is best visited the way back. Some pics are attached....

Note: Please understand that these are not "Party Places" and the people are really very hospitable. Two nights are highly advisable otherwise the driving around becomes exhausting. Also the places have limited accommodation so book well in advance. The food is excellent and the thinking liberal so go have fun, commune with nature (and yourself or whoever / whatever takes your your fancy) and enjoy yourself!

प.एस.: If there are any single coorgi girls out there, I would love to get in touch

No comments:

Post a Comment