Survivors Guide to Bombay: Travelling, Eating and Drinking in the City that Never Sleeps (really ....what else would you go there for?)

Just back from a trip to the commercial capital and while I am happy to be back in the former garden city (all gardens having been successfully converted to Malls and other urban mistakes), for the weather mostly, the difference between the cultures of the two cities is stark. In B'Bay I had the rare pleasure of travelling in an Auto after 0000 hrs, without making the effort to look for one, or negotiating the price or even the destination. Now the same exercise in B'lore, the exchange would have gone something like this:

Self: XXXXXX Destination name
Autowalla: Double fare
Self: Why?
Autowalla: Because it is late.
Self: Normally there is a 50% night surcharge which the meter takes care of.
Autowalla: "£$%^&*

Exit Self
Return Self accompanied by B'lore equivalent of Pandu Havaldar<br>Exit self in wayward Auto - get charged normal fare.


Now in these pressing times this is a qualifies as a criminal waste of energy (mostly the exasperated passengers). The B'Bay fares are higher, the meters are accurate, nobody refuses to go to a destination, and no one is heard complaining because the system is fair to all. So why does B'lore suffer from such blatantly illegal and bboorishservice? A subtle glimpse into the system lays the blame squarely on the customers who allow this to happen including this dear friend of mine who has the habit of jumping into an Auto and shouting "Double Fare" before the hapless autowalla has finished asking her "Kidhar Amma?".

The other problem is the lack of options; the bus service is poorly organised, there is no hail-able taxi service to speak of, and the metro project is like the Airport project - will come up in 10 years if Spice Telecom adverts are to be belived. Which is more the pity as some of the finest technical brains are located in the former garden city as is some serious entrepreneurial talent... it is fortunate that I no longer have to call on the services of the local constabulary to travel within the city.

The other great thing about getting away, other than non argumentative cabbies, was the abundance of venues for social interaction. Meeting someone in a quality eatery / bar - not a problem. The establishment takes care of your car and while one takes in the tasteful ambiance, the service is quick efficient and very warm. Bandra comes highly recommended on that front with the hot favourites being Basilico , PotPorrie and Lemon Grass for food with an unlimited number of watering holes to serve every palate and pocket. Toto's Garage Pub (yes it is a former garage where the Pneumaticlift was thrownout and replaced with air conditioning and a bar) is great for rock-and-beer men's evening out and Club IX for the same in a significantly refined environment - both have been there for a while. If you feel like splurging in overpriced dinners while ogling at the odd celeb then you want to head off carter road towards Shatranj Napoli, Olive and others.

Heading home isnt a problem irrespective of where one stays - there is ample public transport (Cabs and Autos') as one steps out of the vend. Missed dinner? no problem - head for a hotel 24hrs coffee shop. Or if you want something more substantial than a club sand which and cold coffee, head for Bade Miyans at Colaba (off the regal circle behind Mondegar - another landmark institution).

The town area itself has its own charms, with evergreen lunch places being Samovar (Kala Ghoda - Located inside the Jehangir Art Gallery - known for Indian food), Mahesh Lunch Home (Fort - Seafood - need a nap afterwards), and Britannia(Ballard Estate - Parsee food - need to be carried away after that). Other new age ones include Jazz by the Bay (Salad Bar) and the Tea Room ( with their excellent Lunches) both located a stones throw from Churchgate. These I shall sample next time in suitable company - perhaps explore some new ones ;-)
After dinner, the only venue to head for is Mocha. Their selection of international and National coffees is unsurpassed. If one is sweetly inclined, the dessert menu is a connoisseursdelight. Of course, no evening at Mocha is complete without the customary flavoured "sheesha". There are 4 known ones in the city - Churchgate, bandra, Juhu, and Powai. all are excellent though the ladies seem to be partial towards the one at Powai and Juhu. A visit to the city is highly recommended - now that the rains have ceased and winter set in. Commuting there is a whole different story!

Till later - Adios amigos.